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The 17th release of Port Ellen is another excellent dram, this time offering light, sweet fruit notes gradually evolving into earthier, oakier, smokier characteristics that leave you in no doubt of its elegance and complexity. Due to the limited number of casks left there’s always the danger that each release of Port Ellen will be the last.

This 37-year-old whisky was distilled in 1979 and is created from a vatting of eight American oak refill casks.